Hello Friends, Family, and Interested Blog Readers,
As many of you know I have been living here in Panama for over a year now working in a small rural village of 200 residents on the Caribbean ocean as a Water Sanitation Peace Corps Volunteer. Playa Balsa is home to white sandy beaches and gorgeous turquoise waters, but lacks potable water and sanitation facilities. Over the last 9 months I have worked along side community leaders to design a gravity-fed water system that will bring potable water to 25 homes, a church, a small store, and the community building. With high rates of water borne and fecal-oral illnesses this aqueduct will be a great improvement to the community´s health. At the same time we will build the community´s first latrine as a pilot project to hopefully promote better understanding of the importance of latrines and sway those residents who are skeptical of the switch from utilizing the creek as their sanitation facility. It is clear that some residents already desire a home latrine, so this pilot latrine will help the follow-up volunteer work with the community to address just how many should be built and demonstrate the maintenance of the composting design.
To make this project possible we need funds to do so, $10,035.50 to be exact. In case some of you are wishing to make a holiday donation for a family member or yourself I have recently had my project posted on the Peace Corps website https://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=525-173 where you can make a tax deductible donation. If you simply can´t afford to in these tough economic times but know someone who might be able, please help me forward this email along. If you know of any organizations that would be worth contacting regarding funding this project, I would greatly appreciate that information as well. I´m extremely proud of all the hard work my community has done to understand water borne illnesses and design a water system to prevent them and appreciate every penny that helps put their dreams into action.
I hope all is well in your lives and appreciate you taking the time to read this email.
Saludos!
Monday, December 5, 2011
Friday, November 18, 2011
America
America! You great country. I´m coming home to you to visit.
As I fly from Panama City to Miami I can´t help but think about the ideals for which America stands for. The other day one of my host dads (Julian Record) asked me if I thought the United States believes in Jesus Christ less than Panama does . But what he was really asking was, why is the United States always at war? He told me that he knows that the United States is always trying to do good in the world. And so we started to debate what a justified war is. I ultimately asked him, do you think it is up to the United States to throw every dictator out of power like we did in Iraq. He wasn´t sure but he thought yes. The greatest message I took away from this conversation, and so many like it that I´ve had: The United States´ image as the most free, equal, and democratic country in the world has even reached one of the most isolated parts of Panama. I was sad to tell Julian that I think much of the motive of war comes from defense contractors desire to make money. And that I think he is much less critical of the United States than I am. I remember when I was writing my application for the Peace Corps, I had to walk a fine line between not offending the government agency I wanted to work for, while at the same time articulate how much I want to be a part of the good international work the United States does. I feel so grateful to truly feel like I am a part of that work today. And I honestly think I fulfill Peace Corps desire to send out ambassadors of American ideals. I question some of our country´s actions, but only because I think they sometimes stray from our ideals. The difference between the United States´ intervention in Libya vs. Iraq is a great comparison. Libya: U.S. intervention supported by U.N. and Arab League of Nations with clear limitations outlined on for far our support would go. Iraq: none of the above.
We´re far from perfect, but the ideals for which we strive for truly are.
As I fly from Panama City to Miami I can´t help but think about the ideals for which America stands for. The other day one of my host dads (Julian Record) asked me if I thought the United States believes in Jesus Christ less than Panama does . But what he was really asking was, why is the United States always at war? He told me that he knows that the United States is always trying to do good in the world. And so we started to debate what a justified war is. I ultimately asked him, do you think it is up to the United States to throw every dictator out of power like we did in Iraq. He wasn´t sure but he thought yes. The greatest message I took away from this conversation, and so many like it that I´ve had: The United States´ image as the most free, equal, and democratic country in the world has even reached one of the most isolated parts of Panama. I was sad to tell Julian that I think much of the motive of war comes from defense contractors desire to make money. And that I think he is much less critical of the United States than I am. I remember when I was writing my application for the Peace Corps, I had to walk a fine line between not offending the government agency I wanted to work for, while at the same time articulate how much I want to be a part of the good international work the United States does. I feel so grateful to truly feel like I am a part of that work today. And I honestly think I fulfill Peace Corps desire to send out ambassadors of American ideals. I question some of our country´s actions, but only because I think they sometimes stray from our ideals. The difference between the United States´ intervention in Libya vs. Iraq is a great comparison. Libya: U.S. intervention supported by U.N. and Arab League of Nations with clear limitations outlined on for far our support would go. Iraq: none of the above.
We´re far from perfect, but the ideals for which we strive for truly are.
Ngobes with English last names
The peninsula where I live is full of English and Scottish last names: Beker, Williams, Record, Archibald, Trotman, to name a few. So why is that? I´ve got a few theories I´ve put together from conversation and nonfiction.
What most of my community points out is that during World War I many American soldiers got don´t fully believe it). These soldiers got together with Ngobe women, left the children and last name behind, and went on their way. My host dad, Julian Record, had a grandfather named Charlie Smith who had that exact thing happen. He was a white, blue eyed Ngobe who spoke only Ngabere. Julian´s mother who is still alive supposedly has blue eyes but I have yet to meet her.
My constructed theory is this. Many British and Scottish slave owners had slaves working in Haiti on cotton plantations. But when taxes were increased they abandoned Haiti and came to Bocas with their slaves. As the United Fruit company developed (probably beginning with many smaller companies) they originally came to the Peninsula Valiente, told the locals to plant bananas and they´d be back to buy them before they moved production to Changinola. Ngobes originally used their birthplace as their last name. I´m Sili Cruomu, Sili from Cruomoi (which means balsa). The banana owners asked the Ngobes their last name, didn´t understand, and so through these English/Scottish names on them, and history was wrote.
The third influence is the church. We´ve got Methodist, Church of the Apostles, Jehovah’s Witness, and a number of evangelical sects. I think this could have influenced their last names as well.
What most of my community points out is that during World War I many American soldiers got don´t fully believe it). These soldiers got together with Ngobe women, left the children and last name behind, and went on their way. My host dad, Julian Record, had a grandfather named Charlie Smith who had that exact thing happen. He was a white, blue eyed Ngobe who spoke only Ngabere. Julian´s mother who is still alive supposedly has blue eyes but I have yet to meet her.
My constructed theory is this. Many British and Scottish slave owners had slaves working in Haiti on cotton plantations. But when taxes were increased they abandoned Haiti and came to Bocas with their slaves. As the United Fruit company developed (probably beginning with many smaller companies) they originally came to the Peninsula Valiente, told the locals to plant bananas and they´d be back to buy them before they moved production to Changinola. Ngobes originally used their birthplace as their last name. I´m Sili Cruomu, Sili from Cruomoi (which means balsa). The banana owners asked the Ngobes their last name, didn´t understand, and so through these English/Scottish names on them, and history was wrote.
The third influence is the church. We´ve got Methodist, Church of the Apostles, Jehovah’s Witness, and a number of evangelical sects. I think this could have influenced their last names as well.
The Finca
I spent the entire day in the finca today. It was a wonderful day filled of sucking on cacao seeds (if you´ve never tried them you must, they are so sweet and delicious). We planted some seeds in my friend´s finca (tomatoes, basil, bell pepper, carrots, lettuce, and squash), none of which they grow here so we´re trying it out, to try and increase their vegetable intake. We also harvested some ñame, green bananas, and I carried a log to their home for the fagon (firewood stove). We came back to their home to talk about comarca politics and why the United States is always at war. All while eating boiled ñame with coconut soup and freshly killed duck. A truly fantastic day if you ask me.
It was one of those days where I question whether I really hope for much to change out here. It is such a beautiful, simple, and relaxed way of life. Every time that I go to the finca, sure it is partly hard work, but there is also a lot of time simply spent talking, laughing, and eating. There are many people who have left Playa Balsa to work in the city, especially for the United Fruit company, only to come back. They say it´s just so beautiful! There is always vegetables in the finca and fish in the sea, the only problem is clothes. That seems to be the only reason that people leave these days, to get enough money to buy new clothes, and then they´re back. I think that is especially true now that Red de Opportunidades (the welfare program sponsored by the World Bank) gives the women $100 every two months. That money covers sugar, salt, cooking oil, a little rice, and of course the occasional candy.
Sometimes I do have these epiphanies about the poverty here as I´m sitting in someone´s home. A baby might have just pooped on the floor and it is simply cleaned with a little wet rag and never soap. There are kids running around everywhere carrying machetes and other sharp objects, while the parents give a quick snap that I´m going to hit them if they don´t shut up. And parts of the house seem ready to fall at any moment. And other times, as mentioned above, I get the opposite epiphany, and think to myself, this life really is quite romantic. I think it is recognizing that duality that I have taken away most from being here: the natural beauty, the poor hygiene, the relaxed pace, and likewise, the lack of motivation. It might be the longest vacation I have ever endured, but at the same time, it has been truly eye opening to see another way of living and given me ample time for reflection. I remember before I left everybody would simply say, “It changed my life.” I would hear that and wonder to myself ´but how?´ I don´t know if I´m that much closer to answering that question. Perhaps that is supposed to be the great Peace Corps secret. But in all honesty, the Peace Corps is just the vehicle. Anybody who has ever put themselves into an entirely foreign and uncomfortable situation such as this I believe could relate. You learn about yourself, especially how to find happiness when all your lifelines are cut. You learn about another culture and the way they organize their lives, make decisions, and generally perceive the world. You learn how to try to instill motivation and inspire people to think about the future of their community. And perhaps most of all, you learn that life is a process and that any specific goals you might have started with necessitate adaptation.
It was one of those days where I question whether I really hope for much to change out here. It is such a beautiful, simple, and relaxed way of life. Every time that I go to the finca, sure it is partly hard work, but there is also a lot of time simply spent talking, laughing, and eating. There are many people who have left Playa Balsa to work in the city, especially for the United Fruit company, only to come back. They say it´s just so beautiful! There is always vegetables in the finca and fish in the sea, the only problem is clothes. That seems to be the only reason that people leave these days, to get enough money to buy new clothes, and then they´re back. I think that is especially true now that Red de Opportunidades (the welfare program sponsored by the World Bank) gives the women $100 every two months. That money covers sugar, salt, cooking oil, a little rice, and of course the occasional candy.
Sometimes I do have these epiphanies about the poverty here as I´m sitting in someone´s home. A baby might have just pooped on the floor and it is simply cleaned with a little wet rag and never soap. There are kids running around everywhere carrying machetes and other sharp objects, while the parents give a quick snap that I´m going to hit them if they don´t shut up. And parts of the house seem ready to fall at any moment. And other times, as mentioned above, I get the opposite epiphany, and think to myself, this life really is quite romantic. I think it is recognizing that duality that I have taken away most from being here: the natural beauty, the poor hygiene, the relaxed pace, and likewise, the lack of motivation. It might be the longest vacation I have ever endured, but at the same time, it has been truly eye opening to see another way of living and given me ample time for reflection. I remember before I left everybody would simply say, “It changed my life.” I would hear that and wonder to myself ´but how?´ I don´t know if I´m that much closer to answering that question. Perhaps that is supposed to be the great Peace Corps secret. But in all honesty, the Peace Corps is just the vehicle. Anybody who has ever put themselves into an entirely foreign and uncomfortable situation such as this I believe could relate. You learn about yourself, especially how to find happiness when all your lifelines are cut. You learn about another culture and the way they organize their lives, make decisions, and generally perceive the world. You learn how to try to instill motivation and inspire people to think about the future of their community. And perhaps most of all, you learn that life is a process and that any specific goals you might have started with necessitate adaptation.
Floating Doctors
Yesterday I got to translate all day for a group of American medical providers called the Floating Doctors who came to a community near me to provide basic medical attention to surrounding communities. It was awesome! Over two days they were able to see about 100 patients, providing ultrasounds to mothers, medicines, and basic medical advice. They gave out painkillers, worm medicine, yeast infection medication, antibiotics for urinary tract infections, vitamins, and a variety of other medications. The majority of the cases called for simple remedies such as water for headaches and washing hands for preventing diarrhea. Two things which myself and fellow volunteers often emphasize, but which is much more respected when coming from a doctor.
I was translating for a nurse practitioner from Hawaii who had a little bit of Spanish speaking skills, but was very happy to have me there to clarify and translate in both directions. It was truly an incredible experience. The nurse practitioner and I were both impressed by the openness of the villagers here on the peninsula. Women were very open to discuss their sex life, vaginal health, and personal lives in front of me so that I could then translate it. One of my favorite moments was when a couple was trying to figure out why they haven´t had any success getting pregnant for the last 5 years, wanting a third child (hopefully a girl) now that there youngest of two boys was 10. It turned out the husband had had an accident in the last few years after drinking too much and falling. The nurse practitioner recommended that if he is trying to get his wife pregnant he should try not to drink to keep his sperm healthy. Instantly a smile appeared on the wife´s face. Leverage! The nurse practitioner was practically winking at the wife in front of her husband.
Almost every person I translated for I knew and had some backstory with. For those who I did not know, I was able to break the ice with a little ngabere. The nurse practitioner was extremely sweet and quickly picked up the word “koin” which means good. “Lungs koin, heart koin, everything koin.” It made me so proud that the locals felt so comfortable in front of me, and I left feeling so grateful to live in such a warm and open culture.
http://floatingdoctors.com/
I was translating for a nurse practitioner from Hawaii who had a little bit of Spanish speaking skills, but was very happy to have me there to clarify and translate in both directions. It was truly an incredible experience. The nurse practitioner and I were both impressed by the openness of the villagers here on the peninsula. Women were very open to discuss their sex life, vaginal health, and personal lives in front of me so that I could then translate it. One of my favorite moments was when a couple was trying to figure out why they haven´t had any success getting pregnant for the last 5 years, wanting a third child (hopefully a girl) now that there youngest of two boys was 10. It turned out the husband had had an accident in the last few years after drinking too much and falling. The nurse practitioner recommended that if he is trying to get his wife pregnant he should try not to drink to keep his sperm healthy. Instantly a smile appeared on the wife´s face. Leverage! The nurse practitioner was practically winking at the wife in front of her husband.
Almost every person I translated for I knew and had some backstory with. For those who I did not know, I was able to break the ice with a little ngabere. The nurse practitioner was extremely sweet and quickly picked up the word “koin” which means good. “Lungs koin, heart koin, everything koin.” It made me so proud that the locals felt so comfortable in front of me, and I left feeling so grateful to live in such a warm and open culture.
http://floatingdoctors.com/
Little Poem
The clouds hover over the ocean
Signaling the rain to come.
Gusts of wind give the final warning.
I find refuge within my hammock
Pen and Paper in hand.
I watch as lives move before me
Walking incessantly upon the white sand highway
Many find cover under my roof
The rain gives a perfect excuse to come
Look at my photos for the 10th maybe 20th time.
Pictures of Ghanaian chiefs and the salt plains of Bolivia,
Thermal waters of blue skies and red bacteria in Yellowstone
Always draw fascination.
Photos of community members and myself in the finca bring laughter.
Questions of the world always ensue.
“What country is at the edge of the Earth?”
“Where were you when the twin towers fell?”
I love these questions
I get out my map and try to explain that the Earth is round
I give lessons on world history and U.S. involvement in the Middle East
These are indeed my favorite moments.
The rain calms and with on visitor gone, another arrives
A new round of coffee or tea
A new story
The same questions.
Side Projects
I wanted to take some time and write about some side projects I´ve been working on aside from Playa Balsa´s aqueduct.
Sex Ed:
The nearest volunteer to me lives only 20 minutes away in Cayo Paloma where all the kids from 3 communities (including my own) go to school for preschool to 9th grade. Then it´s off to Kusapin, a two hour walk each way, for those seeking to graduate.
Throughout my year here it has been quite obvious that kids become sexually active early and simply rely on the pullout method. While birth rates alone show that this “family planning method” is not working, babies are popping out left and right, often against the mother´s desire, the newest threat is AIDS brought over from Bocas del Toro. About six months ago a girl died of AIDS in a nearby community and it was decided by the locals that it was because she ate pork. Thus, the need for sex ed was very apparent.
Mary Beth (the nearby volunteer) and I decided to go after the youngest possible age we thought we could get away with and thus chose 7th grade. We did 5 classes in total beginning with self-esteem and decision making lectures. One of my favorite activities was taken from Ashland Oregon´s Fresh Start program that I had participated and facilitated in High School. We split into small groups and each wrote a complement on a card for each member for the group, read them aloud, and then bundled them together with string. We then moved on to STIs, HIV/AIDS, and finally family planning, culminating with a condom demonstration on small bananas called buchu. I was extremely impressed by the kids maturity throughout the couse and was surprised but delighted by their excitement each day we arrived for class. Sadly, birth control including condoms are rarely accessible out here (the health center has been without any form of medicine, including birth control and condoms for 7 months now. So my hope remains in the decision making skills of these youngens. While with the previous generation many women got pregnant as early as 14, the average age seems to be more like 17 or 18 these days. Though girls still remain behind boys slightly in education level, they are catching up, leaving room for hope for the current generation.
Aside from that every Saturday I have been giving English lessons and playing games with the youngest kids in the community (4 to 11). The English is a bit of a joke given that many are just learning to read and write, but I quickly moved into more dynamic lesson plans which helps immensely. More than anything however, the kids come for the games. Duck duck goose, capture the flag, playa mar, tiger-hombre-rifle, etc. I began this tradition to justify kicking the loads of kids off my porch now and again so I wouldn´t feel so bad, but I´ve grown extremely fond of this weekly activity and the kids remain a vital element to my mental health. They always have so much energy and enthusiasm for life. They remain positive even in the most dire moments of poverty, and are all around an inspiration. Having said that, I tire quickly and certainly leave the two hour class beat.
Finally, I have been working with two other volunteers to finish a project financially supported by an Eco Tourism resort near Bocas. Much of the project has been simply damage control from some volunteers before my time. While the composting latrine built for tourists was done perfectly (although the community wouldn´t be caught dead using it) the source capture was built on top of gravel and the water quickly eroded under it. So Audrey, Luis, and I started by fixing the source capture, hooked up a 500 gallon tank and surveyed the 11 houses that could possibly benefit from the system. I then designed the aqueduct system (which will sadly only benefit 10 of the 11 houses given the height of one of the homes), sent the list of materials to the Eco Tourism Resort, and will soon be moving into construction phase of that project. Meanwhile, with Audrey´s replacement volunteer, Eric, I hope to push watershed and system management and maintenance education. I hope that Eric and I can finish the project up so it passes through no more PCVs hands and gets water to the community as soon as possible. Plus, it appears to be the perfect time filler until my PCPP funds come in to begin Playa Balsa´s system.
Oh yeah, and teaching English to the 7th, 8th, and 9th grade teachers in Cayo Paloma once a week.
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