Saturday, October 23, 2010

Site Visit

Last week I met my community counterpart for the first time.  It was an exciting moment that could potentially shape the next two years of my life.  One which I will certainly always remember, and one which I came away with feeling like luck was on my side. 

Peace Corps Panama had asked all communities who were to receive a volunteer to send a representative to a town called Farallon where they would meet their volunteer (us) and get a small workshop explaining the work of Environmental Health (EH) and Peace Corps.  Having community members leave their home and venture to a town they have likely never heard of to pick up their volunteer is honestly a tall order.  For this reason 5 of my EH friends were without volunteers the first day.  One community all together decided that they didn't want a volunteer, one volunteer's community guide showed up a day late, and the other three were taken into the Comarca Ngabe-Bugle to visit their communities and make sure they were still interested (which they all were).  In most situations their has been some breakdown in communication, bad weather, or more often than not, they were just scared. 

One important distinction to make is the difference between the community guide and counterpart.  Whoever showed up to pick up their community´s volunteer is the ¨community guide,¨ but this person could or could not be or become your ¨counterpart.¨  Your counterpart is someone who the volunteer recognizes as a leader in the community.  Someone who can help me organize the community, put on workshops, and ultimately assist me in bring water and sanitation to the community.  I am lucky to say that I recognized my community guide as my counterpart.






His name is Opidio.  He is a humble and honest man.  When I asked him what he did for a living he told me that he built boats but that it rarely provided enough income to feed his family.  I asked him how much he sold his boats for and he told me that he tries to sell the large ones for hunting turtles (more on this soon) for $50 dollars but that he must understand that his people are humble like himself and often will only be allowed to pay him payments of $15 over the course of sometimes years.  When we watched baseball on a large screen in the complex at Farallon that the Peace Corps was renting for us for the night he told me that he had never seen baseball on tv before.  When he saw the book I was reading (One hundred years of solitude) and I asked him if he liked to read novels he told me he had never seen a book like that before.  This was one of the few times he had left his province.  He admitted that he was scared to come find me and over my five day visit we often joked about how he had tried to call his mother during his trip, how she never got the message, and she told me that she stayed up all night worried about him.  Now mother´s worrying even when their son is 45 isn´t really that uncommon even in the states (at least in my family).  But I guess I bring all this up because it is a reflection of the size of my community´s world.  Its a small world.  One where most of the family lives within a two hour hike.  There is very little there.  The education is minimal and mostly ineffective.  For god´s sake, I´m there to help them have clean water and a place to use the bathroom.  If that isn´t a reflection of their circumstance I don´t know what is.





The place is beautiful though and the people are kind, hilarious, and hard working (well at least for a beach community).  They are excited to have me there.  Everybody greets me with huge smiles and tries to converse with me in Ngabere.  I can say simple phrases like how are you, what is your name, answer those questions, and I even gave a short presentation about my self in ngabere.  For the most part though I just listen to a language from another world, hear the word gringo every now and again followed by laughter and I smile and laugh with them.  After my introduction there was also a 15 minute comical debate about what to name me.  Although Opidio´s grandfather had named me Choda after a founder of the comunity, when my EH volunteer friends heard this name they laughed because of its similarity to an english slang word.  And for some reason the community also felt like I had been named without btheir consent, so I am now Sili Cruomü, still named after a founder and my last name is the name of the town in Ngabere.  Opidio is still sad that I{m not named after his relative.  The elderly and women speak little Spanish and nobody converses in Spanish if not talking to me.  Í feel lucky to know as much Spanish as I do, but its obvious to me that part of earning my community´s trust and respect will be accomplished by me learning their language.

Respect and trust are the words I will be seeking for the next three months, to ensure the success of the next two years.  As my APCD likes to call it we are beginning ¨Proyecto Amistad¨ (project friendship).  In changing people´s behavior in relation to very personal acts such as using the bathroom, it absolutely behooves me to become as much apart of the community as I can.  That is why I will  be living with three different families over the course of the next three months, going house to house, and trying to understand the needs, desires, and abilities of my community.  The next three months will also be an opportunity for me to put on interactive workshops where the community collectively maps out their village, writes out their average day, and makes a seasonal calendar.  And eventually I will trying to get my community to do a needs assessment that hopefully concludes with their desire to undertake water and sanitation projects but also teaches the tool of how to recognize the desires of a community and puts them into action. 

Already I have witnessed the promise of my community.  Opidio building me my own latrine because of his embarrassment that they poop in the creek is a reflection of their awareness that pooping in the creek isn´t a very good thing and that they desire to do otherwise.  As John F. Kennedy wrote out in the Peace Corps three missions, technical support is only one aspect of the Peace Corps, the other two are simply cultural exchange in hopes of creating lasting international peace.  We´ve discussed religion, the causes of poverty worldwide, and debated their hunting of sea turtles.  A difficult topic when they have been doing it for centuries without any declining populations and use it for subsistence, while the plight of sea turtles have really been largely caused by large fishing boat´s nets not having TEDs (turtle exclusion devices).  But I am excited about all the work I have before me, the beauty that I will be surrounded by over the next two years, and the openness and enthusiasm of my counterpart and community.

I´m very isolated and communicating with friends and family will certainly be missed.  Every three weeks I will leave to buy groceries and communicate with work, family and friends.  I recently bought a cell phone so please email me if you are interested in having that number.  Until then I wish everyone a wonderful few weeks.  I will be officially sworn in as a Peace Corps Volunteer this Thursday and will be meeting the President of Panama, Ricardo Martinelli, so lets hope I don´t trip or something.

Friday, October 1, 2010

Training and Site Placement

Bienvenidos a todos!

I´m trying this blog world out while working here in Panama with the Peace Corps.  I´m hoping to use this blog for more of the development work and cultural exchange side of my work here and reserve personal emails for more personal conversations.

For the last six weeks I have been living with a host family in the town of Rio Congo near Chorrera (about an hour and a half west of Panama City).  Twenty other volunteers and I make up group 66 of Peace Corps Panama.  We are currently Peace Corps Trainees on our 10 week route to become Peace Corps Volunteers.  Our mission, if we choice to accept it, is to educate rural and indigenous communities about water and sanitation while also assisting them to provide small scale infrastructural improvements to their communities.  In the last six weeks I have learned to build composting and pit latrines, repair aqueducts, the basics if gravity fed water systems, and how to educate adults effectively about improving their health in relation to water and sanitation. 

I have been very pleased with the Peace Corps´ promotion and conceptualization of sustainable development.  I find it funny that many of the critiques aimed at the Peace Corps and I myself was guilty of consisted of a fear that they came into communities without cultural sensitivity and ¨pushed¨ US ways of doing things onto others.  Some form of cultural imperialism.  Unable to realize the brillance and resourcefulness of the campesinos themselves.  Or that we came into communities with an agenda and didn´t really address the desires of the people.  This my friends is everything Peace Corps tries to avoid.  We have had countless classes on how to access the needs of a community.  Our first three months are dedicated to our community analysis or ¨proyecto amistdad¨ (friendship project) as my APCD (Associate Peace Corps Director: aka my boss) likes to call it.  This time is spent getting to know the entire community, learning their way of life, their skills, their talents, and addressing those areas where they could use some help.  Our number one desire is to destroy paternalism and build upon passionate community leaders skills to help communities help themselves. 

In my time here I have traveled to the Comarca Ngabe-Bugle (Comarca´s are similar to U.S. Indian Reservations-land dedicated to indigenous communities to repay lands lost during colonization) for a volunteer visit of five days where I witnessed devastating poverty that consisted of babies with blown out bellies from worms and dirt floored homes for six to eight the size of my bedroom for one back in the States.  This poverty was accompanied by extremely hard working, generous, and kind people.  The Ngabe (or Ngobe depending on the publication) originally inhabited the Pacific Coastal lands but were slowly pushed up into the mountains and over to the Caribbean Sea by the Spanish and Mestizos.  Older generations speak Ngabere but the children have lost contact with the language due to their schools only teaching English and Spanish.  Two years ago one of our language professors published the first written account of the Ngabere language and this year marked a pilot project to bring Ngabere into some Comarca classrooms.  The success of this will most likely be dependent on Ngabe people actually teaching this subject, which is difficult given that many Ngabe communities have trouble paying for their children´s transport to school.  During my site visit a very bright boy that was my volunteer´s counterpart´s son had just finished middle school but given the distance to high school he was left at home to help his father with the farm.  Effectively, many Ngabes don´t make it beyond a sixth grade education. 

A week ago I returned from the Darien (the jungle area between Panama and Columbia: impassable) where my group and I spent 10 days building two composting latrines, two pit latrines, two new tap stands, fixing pipes, understanding gravity fed water systems in the field, and engaging in cultural exchange by living with a host family.  The community was called Pueblo Nuevo and was an Embera-Wounaan community.  Although two large Comarcas were created for these people recently, many have lived in their communities for over 30 years and weren´t about to leave the easy access of the Panamerican Highway to enter the jungle and have rights to their land.  Consquently the government allows Embera-Wounaan people living in the so called ¨collective lands¨ no private property rights and live with only a titled lease to their community and the inability to access loans by using their property as collateral.  My family was a Wounaan family are were generous and kind beyond belief.  My saddest moment however was learning late at night that the three children in my family went to bed hungry after my fellow volunteer and I had already eaten.  The projects we did in Pueblo Nuevo are the antithesis of Peace Corps promotion of sustainable development as I´m sure all your critical minds have noticed, but their was a volunteer in the community who worked to provide the infrastructure to those most in need and who will spend her remaining two years educating the community about their proper use and maintenance.  However, this does not make it entirely sustainable and acts much more as a training exercise for us to bring the skills we will need to our respective communities. 

That said, onto today´s news: my site placement.  If you go to google maps and type in Bocas del toro panama you back up a bit you will see a bunch of islands in the south and to the east and then a peninsula jetting out from the east.  At the top of the peninsula is Kusapin, a two hour hike from there will bring you to my community of Playa Balsa going down the peninsula on the Caribbean side.  My main access point will be Chiriqui Grande.  I´ll take a two hour boat ride from there.  I´m officially in the Comarca Ngabe-Bugle but my region is much more similar to Bocas del Toro.  My spot is reported to be gorgeous. White sandy beaches, turquoise waters, spearfishing under water, and good surf.  My community has never worked with an agency so they were extremely excited when the Peace Corps showed up for their multiple site development visits when they said they would, and are supposedly very eager to start on composting latrines and improve their aqueduct system and potentially start collecting rain to drink.  I have no available cell phone access and Internet is a two hour boat ride away in Chiriqui grande so although this email is extremely long, there will be relatively few. 

I hope everyone´s life is going well and thank you for being my teachers, friends, and inspiration.

I´m stoked!